Outside the heavily fortified compounds at Aden Adde airport, Somalia’s capital is one of the most dangerous places in the world, off limits to most foreigners and a risky place for Somali government officials. In a rare trip by foreign journalists, the Guardian captured the everyday vibrancy of the beach, parks, gyms and cafes that are flourishing in the ancient city.
Somalia has the longest coastline in Africa and the Liido beach, pictured here in front of the Elite hotel, is the jewel of Mogadishu – a popular place for evening strolls and children’s games
A popcorn seller carries a machine to his stall for the evening’s business at Liido beach
As the afternoon stretches into evening, people come to walk on the warm sand of Liido beach to watch the sunset and visit the snack vendors
Small fishing boats at Liido beach offer families trips out to sea as well as selling their day’s catches
Renting lifebelts is a popular way for less confident swimmers to brave the gentle waves
Boys playing football after school in the late afternoon
World Cup matches are shown on a big screen on the terrace of the Elite hotel
In the centre of the city is the quiet Peace Garden, a popular spot for celebrations and student graduation parties
A young boy sitting outside the children’s play park in the Peace Garden. It is about a 12-minute walk to the Villa Rose hotel, where the day after this photo was taken, an attack by al-Shabaab militants left nine people dead
People talking in the Peace Garden
The final preparations for a wedding in the Peace Garden
A group of students taking photographs of each other to post on social media
A gym near the Peace Garden gets busier as the sun goes dow
It is dangerous for non-Somalians to move around Mogadishu. Most embassy, UN and NGO staff are prohibited from travelling around the city, remaining instead within a heavily guarded security zone around Aden Adde airport. Attacks by al-Shabaab have increased as the president has ramped up an offensive against them and the areas of Somalia they control. Many of these street vignettes were photographed from within a security-escorted vehicle
Tuk-tuks, three-wheeled taxis, are the most popular mode of transport around the city
Hand-painted shop signage brings colour and vibrancy to Mogadishu’s street
New coffee houses and cafes have been springing up, bringing a sense of normal city life to the beleaguered capital
A tuk-tuk repair shop
Hand-painted shop and garage signage brings a unique character to the commercial part of the city
A street in Mogadishu
Advertising on a street in Mogadishu
The city still has reminders of the past, and of the lack of development that has beset Somalia as it struggles with war and drought
